 In
wine-making Santu Lussurgiu boasts an age-old tradition,
although its current production is barely enough to satisfy
local demand.
The vineyards of Santu Lussurgiu, mainly of
the low-growing type, are found along the edges of the Abbasanta
plateau, facing eastward and thus bathed in sunlight all
day long. In addition, the volcanic origin of the soil and
its consequent abundance of dissolved mineral salts confers
exceptional qualities on the production.
These are true "gardens
of Bacchus" where the old men of the village go early in
the morning on mule-back, bearing with them the clock of
the seasons and a philosophy of life deeply respectful of
Nature's rhythms.
Almost all of the houses in the town's
historic center have a wine cellar dug out of the rock: a
natural air conditioner where wine ages in chestnut-wood
barrels and is poured forth unstintingly on "sa die de Santu
Andria " (St. Andrew's day) for the traditional expert tasting
of new wines, and repeatedly throughout the year during endless
discussions among friends.
Since 1997 the Restaurant has
produced wine from its own vineyard of S'Arzola 'e sa mola
in the territory of Santu Lussurgiu, and the results are
highly satisfactory. Another ancient art is the distillation
of acqua-vitae, or filu 'e ferru (literally,
"barbed wire").
This curious name originates from the clandestine distillation
of wine, once a very popular activity at Santu Lussurgiu. To keep this
undertaking secret, the stills were concealed underground, and the
exact spot was marked with a piece of barbed wire so that it could
be found later. Already by the 18th century numerous edicts threatened
very severe sanctions to repress the phenomenon of illegal distilling,
which was practiced especially in the villages of Villacidro and Santu
Lussurgiu, the main centers for distilling, followed by Laconi, Osilo,
Sassari, Tempio, Bosa, Oristano, Cabras and other smaller villages.
The acqua-vitae, as the edict stated, was "sold wholesale, and the
barrels were taken to Cagliari where they were widely consumed in the
dockyards among the stevedores, and among peasants, carters and junk-dealers.
The acqua-vitae of Santu Lussurgiu is the best known and most esteemed
in the Island, also because tradition had, already by the mid-19th
century, made good use of the highly refined techniques introduced
by Professor Don Nicolò
Meloni of Santulussurgiu, an eminent scholar of Sardinian agriculture,
assistant to Prof. Ottavi, a passionately enthusiastic silkworm raiser
and cattle breeder. Nicolò Meloni, who dedicated himself to
wine-making using avant-garde techniques on the European level, improved
a system of fermenting wines and became the producer of the famous "Cognac
Sardegna", of which a copy of a rare label is shown here. Nicolò Meloni's
activity was continued by his son Don Deodato Meloni, also memorable
for some courageous experiments such as the raising of silk worms and
the realization of rationally designed cellars for the production of
cognac.
His name is also linked to works of charity, and he donated
to the Municipality a vast estate for the creation of a state school
for agrarians, for the education and instruction of local youths and
those of the whole region. Unfortunately, the school has long since
been transferred elsewhere and the premises are now empty!
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Apparent of the
Cognac Sardegna
Rare label of the Cognac Sardegna
Still
(Museum of the country Technology of Santu Lussurgiu)
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