The road that leads to Cuglieri passes through magnificent forests of ilex trees (Quercus Ilex), here called "Elighe", which cover the slopes of Montiferru on this side. In some of the most inaccessible valleys grow ancient, picturesque trees and the forest paths are often blocked by lianas. These thick, impenetrable formations are among the few remains existing in Sardinia today of the great ilex woods that once covered vast areas of the Mediterranean territory. The ilex groove is an evergreen formation. Only a dim light manages to penetrate through the leaves, and the underbrush is poor in species, among them the butcher's broom (Cuscus Aculeatus) here called "Fruscu"; the Asparagus (Asparagus Aculeatus) here called "Isparau", and a few others. In this environment growing conditions are good only for the cyclamen (Cyclamen Repondum), at Santu Lussurgiu called "Lepore Isposu". The ilex is a tree that grows even where the substratum is very poor and the environmental conditions are discouraging to more demanding species. In the areas most degraded by the hand of man the forest has been replaced by a thick Mediterranean macchia consisting mainly of the cane apple (Arbutus Unedo), which we call "Lidone", heather, "Frunzudu", Spanish broom, "Uscradina" and rockrose, called "Mudegu". The ilex woods is not always a pure formation. In some less arid areas with deeper topsoil, a mixed woods of ilex and oak can be found. And by the way, it is not always easy to identify the various species of "Quercus" which, on Montiferru, are four, namely: I) Quercus Ilex (here called "Elighe") with persistent leaves that are leathery, oval, smooth-edged or toothed, glabrescent on the top and hairy on the bottom, and a rather smooth bark. II) Quercus Suber (here called "Suerzu"), the common cork oak, also with persistent leaves, rounder than those of the other species but with a thicker bark furrowed by cracks. III) Quercus Congesta (here called "Grecu") with deciduous leaves of sinuolate-lobate shape, glabrescent on the top, rather hairy on the bottom, with curved and sometimes pendulous branches. IV) Quercus Pubescens, the pubescent oak, which is here hard to distinguish from the former and which is not always considered a separate species. The pubescent oak too has deciduous leaves, sinuolate-lobate in shape, always hairy on the bottom, but the tree has erect branches. In the warmer areas, near Abbasanta for example, the Quercus Congesta is common. In the cooler zones it should be possible to recognize the pubescent oak. In the "Silbanis" locality, above the road that leads from Santu Lussurgiu to Macomer, the visitor can admire a thick forest of holly (Ilex Aquifolium) here called "Oḷstrighe", one of the most important residual formations in Sardinia. Other smaller, more isolated examples grow around Madonnina. Here, in the "S'abba Lughida" locality, along with holly, ilex, oak and hawthorn, survives another relic of the plant world: the yew-tree (Taxsus L.), whose local name is "Linu Ruiu", a tree now rare and on the verge of extinction since, being toxic to cattle, it is systematically eliminated by farmers. Still in the vicinity of the "S'Abba Lughida" spring can be seen the beautiful "Osmunda Regalis", a fern of very ancient origin. And in the Madonnina area, at the "Silvanis" locality, the deadly nightshade (Atropa Belladonna) flourishes, along with infesting plants such as brambles and clematis. Very near the village, in a countryside called "Sos Lavros", abounding in almond trees, wild olives, olive trees and nettles," sa Sulzaga", grows the laurel (Laurus Nobilis), "su Lavru". The wealth of trees on Montiferru does not end here; alongside flourishing chestnut woods, the countryside is dotted with walnut trees (Juglans Regia), "sa Nughe", wild pears (Pyrus Amygdaliformis), "Pirastu Mele", "Pirastu Muscadellinu", cherry trees (Prunus Avium), "Cariasa", fig trees (Ficus Carica), "Crabu Figu", apple trees (MelusDasiphilla), "Mela Albina", and medlars (Nespilus Germanica), "Nespula Sarda". In the more sheltered zones, generally lying along the so-called "vineyard road" that links Santu Lussurgiu and Paulilatino, the Lussurgesi cultivate the grapevine. In the cooler areas, olive grooves too are numerous and well-kept. In some zones it is still possible to see centuries-old oak trees, the last survivors of the great forest that, up to the early 19th century, extended between Santu Lussurgiu, Macomer, Borore, Scano Montiferru and Cuglieri, covering an area of over 10,000 hectares. Historical documents mention a group of speculators who, in about 1818, cut as many as 7500 big oak trees around Scano Montiferru. "The wood was transported to France, to Toulon, and it was known to be one of the best shipyard lumbers in all Europe, so that it was greatly in demand". From a report written in February 1834 it can be seen that in that year the forest of Montiferru still numbered 22,000 oaks, 4000 ilexes and 1000 cork trees. Eight thousand of these centuries-old trees were cut down by a group of shipbuilders and naval constructors from Genoa. In less than 20 years, about half of the 35,000 ancient trees growing in the forest were used to build ships. The speculators, moreover, so as not to waste time in clearing the land, gave the stumps free to the woodcutters in the neighboring villages. Numerous fires were lit by quarreling woodcutters or by shepherds and farmers who wanted to clear the land for their own use. The forest was devastated still further. Even today the most ferocious enemy of Montiferru is fire. In 1981 the damage caused by arson was enormous. Fires were lit in an area abounding in vegetation in the natural state which, now destroyed, will probably never grow back. Immeasurable harm has been done to the forest, in both environmental and economic terms. Nature's wealth is not inexhaustible and must be adequately protected to guarantee the conservation of this territory in its original state. We are pleased to note that the Region of Sardinia has assigned our forest the status of a particularly valuable area on the ecological level, and is planning to manage it through projects designed to conserve the whole ecosystem, describing it as "a zone not yet transformed by industrial and metropolitan civilization, suitable by vocation to serve composite functions, among which, along with the prioritary need for conservation, can be appropriately named those of education, open-air recreation and liesure time activities".

 
 


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