In wine-making Santu Lussurgiu boasts an age-old tradition, although its current production is barely enough to satisfy local demand. The vineyards of Santu Lussurgiu, mainly of the low-growing type, are found along the edges of the Abbasanta plateau, facing eastward and thus bathed in sunlight all day long. In addition, the volcanic origin of the soil and its consequent abundance of dissolved mineral salts confers exceptional qualities on the production. These are true "gardens of Bacchus" where the old men of the village go early in the morning on mule-back, bearing with them the clock of the seasons and a philosophy of life deeply respectful of Nature's rhythms. Almost all of the houses in the town's historic center have a wine cellar dug out of the rock: a natural air conditioner where wine ages in chestnut-wood barrels and is poured forth unstintingly on "sa die de Santu Andria " (St. Andrew's day) for the traditional expert tasting of new wines, and repeatedly throughout the year during endless discussions among friends. Since 1997 the Restaurant has produced wine from its own vineyard of S'Arzola 'e sa mola in the territory of Santu Lussurgiu, and the results are highly satisfactory. Another ancient art is the distillation of acqua-vitae, or filu 'e ferru (literally, "barbed wire"). This curious name originates from the clandestine distillation of wine, once a very popular activity at Santu Lussurgiu. To keep this undertaking secret, the stills were concealed underground, and the exact spot was marked with a piece of barbed wire so that it could be found later. Already by the 18th century numerous edicts threatened very severe sanctions to repress the phenomenon of illegal distilling, which was practiced especially in the villages of Villacidro and Santu Lussurgiu, the main centers for distilling, followed by Laconi, Osilo, Sassari, Tempio, Bosa, Oristano, Cabras and other smaller villages. The acqua-vitae, as the edict stated, was "sold wholesale, and the barrels were taken to Cagliari where they were widely consumed in the dockyards among the stevedores, and among peasants, carters and junk-dealers. The acqua-vitae of Santu Lussurgiu is the best known and most esteemed in the Island, also because tradition had, already by the mid-19th century, made good use of the highly refined techniques introduced by Professor Don Nicoḷ Meloni of Santulussurgiu, an eminent scholar of Sardinian agriculture, assistant to Prof. Ottavi, a passionately enthusiastic silkworm raiser and cattle breeder. Nicoḷ Meloni, who dedicated himself to wine-making using avant-garde techniques on the European level, improved a system of fermenting wines and became the producer of the famous "Cognac Sardegna", of which a copy of a rare label is shown here. Nicoḷ Meloni's activity was continued by his son Don Deodato Meloni, also memorable for some courageous experiments such as the raising of silk worms and the realization of rationally designed cellars for the production of cognac. His name is also linked to works of charity, and he donated to the Municipality a vast estate for the creation of a state school for agrarians, for the education and instruction of local youths and those of the whole region. Unfortunately, the school has long since been transferred elsewhere and the premises are now empty!

 



Drawing and tasting


Apparent of the Cognac Sardegna


Still
(Museum of the country Technology of Santu Lussurgiu)




"La Bocca del Vulcano" Restaurant - Via L. Alagon, 27 - 09075 Santu Lussurgiu (OR) - Tel. 0783 550974 - E-mail:uguerra@tiscalinet.it